Tang Cu Qiezi (Sweet and Sour Eggplant)

This is a variation on Sichuan Classic. In Chengdu, at a restaurant we dubbed "Pretty in Pink" because of its gaudy vinyl wall panels, we repaired to a small, open-front restaurant with 6 or 7 tables, one server and one cook.  I ordered Yu Xiang Qiezi,  but when it arrived it was obvious from its color that the cook had deep fried the eggplant, and omitted the chili paste and Chingkiang vinegar.  In spite of the fact that it was a bit different than the traditional,  we liked it very much--in fact, we rarely went back to traditional version.   Begging the chef's pardon, I’ll call this Tang Cu Qiezi, sweet and sour eggplant, in honor of its divergence from the more traditional methods of Sichuan.

2 - 3 Asian eggplants
2 small egg whites, beaten
1/2 cup cornstarch
1 tsp salt

2 – 3 Tab peanut oil
Heap Tab garlic
1 Tab minced ginger
1 round tab minced scallion
1or 2  dried chilies, chopped in 4 - 5 pieces

Sauce:

2 tsp rice vinegar
2 rounded tsp sugar
1/2 cup stock
1 Tab soy sauce
1 – 2 Tab wine

Cornstarch slurry

Sesame oil and cilantro for garnish


Prepare all other ingredients, and begin pre-heating the deep frying oil to 350 degrees.


Cut eggplants crosswise into 2 1/2 " to 3" segments, then each segment cut into eighths, lengthwise.  In a large bowl or plastic bag, combine cornstarch with salt.  When deep frying oil has nearly attained 350 degrees you can begin the sauce before frying the eggplant: turn up the wok and on moderate heat, stir fry the ginger for a few seconds, then add the chilis, garlic and scallion;  Toss for 30 seconds or so, until the edges of the garlic and scallion just begin to brown, and splash in the wine.  Add the sugar, stock, vinegar and soy sauce.  When the liquid begins to boil, drizzle in the cornstarch slurry until the sauce begins to thicken, and take off the heat.  The sauce should thick enough to coat a spoon, but not so thick that it will not flow easily when you tilt the wok.


Quickly toss the eggplant pieces in a bowl with the beaten egg whites.  Now toss them vigorously in bowl or plastic bag, then, with a colander or sieve, shake off excess starch.  Lower the eggplant into the fryer and fry for three minutes, stirring occasionally, until the outside is nicely browned and the center is soft but still moist.  Drain the eggplant for 15 seconds or so, then plate, arranging the pieces neatly.


If the sauce seems too thick when you are ready to pour it over the eggplant, thin with a teaspoon or two of stock.  Pour the sauce over the eggplant, then garnish with sesame oil and cilantro.

Gan Shao Ji Chi (Braised Chicken Wings)

This is recipe is not a Chinese version of those famous fried wings originating in Buffalo, New York.  But like many cultural and scientific phenomena, the Chinese were way ahead of us.  They have been eating chickens for 32 centuries, and since it has never been the Chinese habit to waste anything, we can assume the wings were eaten for a similar number of years.  When it became a separate “delicacy” however, is not known.

Chicken wings are a beloved snack in most places in China.  And you will find braised wings, both sweet and spicy versions, sometimes on a skewer, sometimes awaiting a dip in the huo guo pot.  This recipe utilizes the gan shao or dry braised, cooking method, with soy and sugar, served as a snack or appetizer, and is relatively easy to make in a wok; I’ve moderated the sweetness with a bit of vinegar.  Bring plenty of napkins to the table!

24 sections of chicken wings (about 2  3/4 lbs.)
2 Tab rock sugar or brown sugar
1 Tab sweet soy
1 Tab light soy
1 Tab rice wine (or sherry)
1 Tab rice wine vinegar
1 round Tab finely minced ginger
1 green onion, finely minced
2 tsp ground bean sauce
1 Tab hoisin sauce
3/4 cup chicken stock
Peanut oil for frying

Clean and dry the chicken wing sections.  You may include the wing tips if desired.  Marinate chicken in the sugar, sweet soy, soy sauce, rice wine and wine vinegar for at least an hour or overnight.
For convenience, combine the bean sauce and hoisin sauce in a small dish.  Mince green onion and ginger and set aside.
Drain the chicken thoroughly, reserving all the marinade,  then pat the chicken pieces dry with a towel or paper towel.   Heat a deep fryer or wok with 2 – 3 cups of oil to 325 degrees; carefully lower 6 or so chicken pieces into the oil and arrange the pieces evenly with a bamboo strainer.  As you turn and move the wings, keep an eye on them to make sure they don’t burn.  The sugars in the marinade will caramelize very quickly.  Fry wings briefly until the skin is a mahogany-brown color, then remove and set aside.  Repeat until all the chicken is browned.  Turn off heat and remove all the frying oil; if using a wok, rinse out when cool enough, and dry on med heat.  Add 2 – 3 tablespoons of peanut oil; when it just begins to smoke, toss in ginger and green onion and stir fry until it just begins to brown, then add bean sauce and hoisin.  Stir fry for a minute or so and add the reserved marinade and stock.  When the liquid boils, gently lower chicken pieces into the liquid and turn the heat to low so that the wings will simmer gently.  Cover and braise chicken pieces for about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally.  When the wings are cooked through, remove the lid and increase the heat.  Reduce the liquid until it coats the chicken and no longer puddles in the bottom of the pan.  Remove and arrange on a platter.
Men ji chi can be served hot or cold, but in either case be sure to provide lots of napkins!

Jiao Yan Xia (Salt and Pepper Shrimp)

Salt and Pepper Shrimp (Jiao Yan Xia)


Salt and pepper preparations are ubiquitous in stateside restaurants, both Chinese and Vietnamese, offering chicken, squid, shrimp and pork, especially ribs.  Simply put, before frying, the meat is dredged in a mixture of salt and ground white or black pepper, giving it a dry, intense, sparkly sort of taste.  However, it is not as common in China, unless one considers the very common Sichuanese penchant for using a salt and Sichuan peppercorn mixture as a dip, especially with steamed chicken.


Here, in traditionally oriented restaurants, Salt and Pepper shrimp is usually prepared shell on, sometimes with head included; however, I prefer the textural subtleties of a more “western-friendly” version of the dish, and peel the shrimps.


Two quarts frying oil (peanut oil is excellent)
8 oz. Deveined, peeled shrimp. (30-40 count per pound works well)
1/2 med. Yellow onion, sectioned into crescents
4 small green onion, sectioned 2” long.  Reserved greenest portion for garnish.
1 egg white.
4 Tab cornstarch (1/3 cup)
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
2 Tab peanut oil for stir frying
Salt and pepper for onions.


Fresh chili or Jalepeno, sliced diagonally (optional)
In a bowl, combine cornstarch pepper and salt well.  Combine green and yellow onion in a bowl and season with a few dashes of salt and pepper to taste.
In a deep fryer or large pot Heat frying oil to 375°.  Dry shrimp with paper towels. Whip egg white lightly and add shrimp, mixing well.  When oil is to temperature, pick shrimp out of the egg white, shake off excess egg, and place in cornstarch mixture.  Toss and roll the shrimp to coat evenly; shake off excess starch in colander or by hand and carefully place in oil; use bamboo chopsticks to separate and turn shrimp.  Cook just until shrimp curl and firm up; quickly remove and drain.  Heat wok to hot and add 2 tablespoons peanut oil,  put in seasoned onions (and chili if using).  Stirfry until edges of onion begin to brown. Add back shrimp; fry for 30 seconds or so and remove all with basket strainer.  Drain on paper towels, and quickly remove to platter.  Garnish with reserved greens and served immediately.

Gan Bian Si Ji Dou (Dry fried four season bean)

Gan Bian Si Ji Dou  (Dry fried four season bean)


Gan Bian Si Ji Dou is a classic vegetable dish, thought to be from Sichuan, which one will encounter on Chinese menus all over the world.  In the past, the bean most traditionally used in this Sichuan dish is chang dou orchang jiang dou, known in English as yard-long beans.  The reference in the name “si ji dou”, (lit: four season bean) is likely due to the beans’ heartiness, and farmers’ ability to grow it in almost any season. In any event, over time, the common green bean or string bean has occasionally been used in China, and invariably in the West.  The two are very similar, though the long bean requires slightly longer cooking time, and is less likely to be stringy or tough.  Traditional variations on this famous preparation add ground pork, omit the dried shrimp, vary the seasoning ingredients; but all include the double-cooked beans, the preserved vegetable and minced onions while maintaining the crisp texture and sweet fresh flavor of the beans.

• 20 oz. Yard-long beans or string beans
• 2-3 cloves garlic, very finely minced
• 1/2” x 1” pc ginger, very finely minced
• 1 green onion, very finely minced
• 1 Heaping Tab of dried shrimp
• 2 Tab pickled mustard cabbage or Tianjin pickled vegetable
• 1 Tab soy
• 1/2 tsp coarse salt
• 1-1/2 tsp sugar
• 2-1/2 tsp rice wine vinegar

• sesame oil to garnish

• 2-3 Quarts of Frying oil in large pot.

Wash, trim and cut beans to 2-3” lengths; make sure they are thoroughly dry. In a large pot, slowly heat deep fry oil to 350º (editor’s note: see “deep frying” in the Techniques section.) The beans can also be shallow fried or stir fried, though the cooking time may have to be increased.  In the meantime, prepare the other ingredients.  (Note that the garlic, ginger, green onion and shrimp should be finely minced, allowing the flavoring ingredients to cling to the beans when the dish is plated).  In a bowl, pour 1 cup of very hot water over the dried shrimp and cover.  Set aside for 30 minutes.  Wash and drain the preserved vegetable, then press out any remaining moisture, chop roughly and set aside.  Drain shrimp and mince finely.
When oil has reached 350º add the beans in two or three portions to keep foaming to a minimum, and deep fry until skin begins to blister and beans have slightly softened—about a minute or two, depending on the freshness of the beans.  It is crucial that they not be overcooked, as the loss of their texture ruins the dish.  To be certain, after frying for about a minute, retrieve a bean section, quickly submerge in cold water and taste for doneness.  The bean should be crisp; keep in mind the beans will continue to cook after they are taken out of the oil.  When the beans are done, drain thorougly and set aside.  This step can be done ahead, but it is best to continue and complete the dish as soon as possible.
Heat the wok and add 2-3 Tab of peanut oil; on med high, but before wok begins to smoke, add ginger, garlic and onions.  Toss once or twice and add dried shrimp and preserved vegetable.  Immediately add beans, toss, then add vinegar, soy, sugar and salt.  Be sure to check for saltiness: Gan bian si ji dou is a savoury dish, with just a hint of sweetness.  Plate the beans, making sure you scrape the wok of the flavoring ingredients and scatter them on top of the dish.  Garnish with a small amount of sesame oil.

Whole Fish with Chili Sauce (Doubanjiang quan yu)

Whole Fish with Chili Sauce (Doubanjiang quan yu)

One tradition of Chinese cuisine which differs markedly from that of the West is that of serving fish whole (quan) rather than in steak or filet form.  Due to cultural tradition and economy, game birds, domestic fowl and seafood are often served anatomically intact.  For example, many duck, quail, pigeon and chicken dishes are served with the head combs and beaks still attached, which is generally repugnant to most Westerners.  Chinese American versions of traditional dishes have made allowances for this, and by far the most popular dishes in North America are boneless, fileted and trimmed meat protein.  Whole fish, however, is often offered stateside, but usually requires special ordering in advance.  Any meat cooked “bone in” will tend to be juicier and more flavorful, so the following recipe is highly recommended as a seafood presentation, besides being a fundamental tradition in China.

1-1/2 1/3/4 lb Sheephead, Bass, or Snapper

2 TAB rice wine (marinade)
2 TAB Soy (marinade)

• 6-8 Tab Peanut oil
• 1 “ x 1” pc Ginger, peeled and minced
• 2-3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 green onion, entirely minced
• 1 level TAB chili bean sauce
• 2 tsp sugar
• 2-3 TAB Xiaoshing wine or dry sherry

Sauce:

• 1 TAB soy sauce
• 1 TAB sweet soy sauce
• 1 cup chicken or pork stock
• Cornstarch Slurry

Garnish:

• Cilantro, roughly chopped
• Slivered or shredded carrot
• sesame oil

Gut the fish or have it gutted and remove gills; wash and thoroughly dry.   Slice 3 diagonal gashes in the side of the fish, both sides.  Marinate the fish in soy and wine, rubbing the marinade into the flesh, gashes and the body cavity.  Let stand for 30 minutes or more.

Prepare flavoring ingredients, mincing garlic, ginger and green onion.  Combine the soy sauces and stock, and set aside.
Heat the peanut oil in a wok; drain the fish and pat dry; dust with cornstarch and shake off the excess.  When the oil just begins to smoke, slowly and carefully slide the fish into the wok, head first.  Use two shovels or spatulas to manipulate the fish, sliding it to the center, then carefully tilt the wok at angles so that the hot oil comes in contact with the head, middle and tail.  Fry on med-high to high for approximately 6 or 7 minutes, adjusting the heat so it doesn’t burn, then slowly turn the fish over.  This is difficult, and care must be taken not to break the partially cooked fish, nor tear the skin.  Roll the fish over slowly using two spatulas or two large chopsticks and a spatula and cook for 6 to 7 minutes.  When the skin is browned and the flesh separates easily when pulled with a fork, it is done.

Turn off the heat and gently slide two spatulas under the fish and put it on a flat plate to drain.
Meanwhile, reheat the oil to med hot (if there is not at least 3 TAB of oil left over from the frying of the fish add to it; if there is too much oil, scoop some out if desired)  When oil is hot, toss in ginger, garlic and green onion.  Toss until it just begins to turn color, then add chili paste and sugar.  Stir fry for 30 seconds or so, swirl in wine, then the sauce ingredients.  When sauce is boiling, add cornstarch slurry a little at a time, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens enough to coat the cooking utensils.  Take the wok off the heat and set aside while you carefully pick up the whole fish with two spatulas and place in on the serving platter.  Pour the sauce over the fish, and garnish.