General Tso's Chicken

Why would a blog dedicated to "Traditional Chinese Recipes" feature General Tao's Chicken, a dish virtually unknown in China?   For one thing, one of the minimal definitions of tradition is "an artistic or literary method or style established by an artist, writer, or movement, and subsequently followed by others." General Tso's certainly qualifies on that basis, since this dish is served everywhere in the world by Chinese chefs in Chinese restaurants--everywhere, in fact, except China, and with some surprising degree of consistency.  Further, if we think of the mainland as the "go to" authority, consider that General Tso's Chicken was invented in China, by a Chinese chef, and while it faded from view in Mainland China, it made its way from there to Taipei, to the United States, and evolved, as most traditions do, to become the famous dish we know today.   (I'd venture to say this may all be a moot point anyway, since the ever-wealthier China absorbs so many cultural trends of the West, so the worldwide popularity of General Tso's Chicken will someday make it as much a traditional dish in China as it is here.) 

The history of this dish has been thoroughly described by at least two authors.  Fuchsia Dunlop gives an excellent account, and a recipe for the unsweetened Hunanese version, originated by chef Peng Chang-kuei, in her excellent book, Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook.  Similarly, Jennifer 8. Lee describes with delicious humor her search for the original General Tso's Chicken in The Fortune Cookie Chronicles.

The attraction of this dish is doubtless in its simplicity of flavor and texture-- the chicken is chewy/crisp on the outside, moist on the inside, all drenched in a dark, spicy, sweet and tangy sauce.  The secret to a chewy/crisp exterior is double frying, utilized by Chinese chefs in a number of dishes where crispness of an otherwise moist item is desired.

1 1/4 lb boneless chicken thigh

1 heap Tablespoon minced garlic 

1 Tablespoon minced ginger

2 Green onions

4 - 6 chilis, cut into 3/4" lengths (Optional)

Chicken Marinade:

1 tsp dark soy

1 Tab light soy

1 Tab Shao Xing wine or dry sherry

1 Tab cornstarch

 1 egg white

Batter: 

In a bowl, appx 2/3 cup cornstarch

1/2 tsp baking soda. (The baking soda assists with the Maillard browning reaction which cornstarch is otherwise resistant to)

Sauce:

3/4 cup chicken stock

1 1/2 Tab sugar

1 heap tsp brown sugar

1 TAB rice vinegar

2 TAB light soy

1 tsp dark soy

1 Tab rice wine

Cornstarch slurry (see thickening sauces in Technique)

Sesame oil, slivered red pepper or carrot for garnish

The following can be done ahead of time: wash and trim out tendon and large fat deposits from chicken thigh pieces and cut into chunks approximately 2" square or so.   Dry the cut meat;  in a bowl, mix very thoroughly with the marinade to evenly coat. In another med large bowl, combine cornstarch and soda and set aside.

Preheat deep fryer to 375º to prepare for the first frying.

Dredge marinated chicken pieces in the cornstarch/soda mixture and shake off extra coating, setting aside these aside until all the chicken is battered.  Lower pieces carefully into the 375º oil.  Fry approximately 3 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Remove to a platter with paper towels or drain rack, separate, and allow to cool.

Meanwhile, mince garlic and ginger.  Mince the white portion of the green onion, and chop the green portion separately into 1/8" rings.   Prepare the sauce, set aside in a bowl, and prepare cornstarch slurry.  

When the fried chicken pieces are completely cool to the touch, you are ready for the 2nd frying, but first you'll make the sauce. As the deep fry oil heats to 375º,  heat a wok on med/high, swirl in 2 Tab of peanut oil, and when the oil is hot, add the minced ginger, garlic and onion and stir fry a few seconds.  Add the chilies, if using, and then splash in the tablespoon of wine.  Add the sauce mixture, and as soon as it begins to boil, slowly add cornstarch slurry while stirring ingredients until the sauce thickens to the desired consistency.  If using an electric stove, take the wok off the heat until the burner cools to low before returning; the sauce should remain in the wok on a very low heat while the chicken is fried a second time.

With the deep fry oil at 375º carefully lower the chicken into the oil and cook for another 3 or 4 minutes.  Remove with skimmer or bamboo strainer, gently shake off excess oil, and place directly into sauce.  This may require two or three dips into the oil.  Now toss the chicken in the hot sauce, remove to a serving platter and garnish with sesame oil, green onion shreds, or other garnish.

Suan La Tang

Suan La Tang (literally, "sour hot soup," but known in the West as Hot and Sour Soup)

A riot of flavor and texture, this is the soup your grandmother might make, if your grandmother was Chinese and lived in Northwestern China--the eastern equivalent to "vegetable soup."  And so, you will find a great deal of variation in the ingredients for this healthful dish.  Some published recipes will include such additions as duck blood and sea cucumber.  But, like General Tso's Chicken, which began in Asia as a very different animal, this dish has adapted to Western tastes, and has now evolved it's own traditional preparation in Western Chinese restaurants, especially those billing themselves as regional or Sichuan restaurants.

But even if one ignores the foregoing the sea cucumber and duck blood, Suan La Tang still has ingredients that are unfamiliar to most western cooks: "Cloud Ear Fungus" (云耳; yún'ěr,) and "Golden Needles." huang hua cai 黃花菜.  These inclusions have as much to do with texture as flavor, as you will see, but along with bamboo shoots and Chinese dried mushroom, they are essential to the character of Suan La Tang.

Finally, this recipe is not for the faint of heart.  Hot and Sour Soup is not technically difficult to make, but to be honest, it is time consuming.  Each of the eight main ingredients need at least two stages of prep; soaking, marinating, then carefully slicing and shredding.  But, as with most things in life, the difficulty pays off, and the results are far superior to anything you're likely to find in Western Chinese restuarants.

Prepare the following:

4 Chinese dried mushrooms-- soak in 180° hot water for 40 min; wring out moisture when cool, then julienne.

1/4 oz Cloud ears-- soak in 180° hot water for 40 min; wring out moisture when cool, then julienne.

3/4 oz golden needles, soak in 180° hot water for 40 min; wring out moisture when cool, then cut large pcs in half

1 - 2 oz bamboo shoots, blanched, drained and slivered

MARINATE the above in

1 TAB sweet black vinegar

1 TAB wine

1 TAB soy

2 scallions, diagonally sliced

1-2 tsp chopped dried chili or chili flake if desired

6 oz Pork, Partially frozen to stiffen then julienned; marinate in 1 TAB Light Soy, 1 Tab rice wine or sherry

8 oz firm fresh Doufu; Rinsed, matchstick

In a large sauce pan COMBINE stock:

3 cans low sodium chicken stock  (1 1/2 quarts--Homemade is best)

1 Heap TAB chx boullion paste or powder

12 oz water

In a bowl, COMBINE:

4 TAB rice vinegar

1 Heap tsp Sugar

1 TAB light Soy

1 TAB Black Soy

1/2 tsp coarse black pepper

1 tsp fine white pepper

In a bowl, COMBINE with whisk:

2 eggs + 2 tsp oil + pinch of salt

COMBINE:

4- 5 TAB potato starch with 4 TAB water for slurry

SET ASIDE:

1 cup cilantro leaves, no stems

GARNISH:

A few cilantro leaves

Sesame oil

Once the preparation of the ingredients is complete, assemble the soup in the following order:   Bring the stock to a simmer with the Chinese mushrooms, Cloud ears, golden needles, and bamboo shoots;  Lower heat to barely a simmer; Add julienned PORK;  Add DOU FU; When the stock begins to simmer again, add potato starch slurry slowly until it thickens per your preference; pour in beaten EGG in a thin stream and do not stir for a half minute or so to set egg; add CILANTRO, then VINEGAR mixture and stir only enough to distribute ingredients.  Remove to a serving bowl.  Garnish w/ Sesame oil, few pieces of cilantro and chili

Dan Dan Mian (Dan Dan Noodles)

Dan Dan Mian (Dan Dan Noodles)

The name of this dish derives from the verb dan, to carry on a pole, referring to the time, until recently, when Sichuanese street vendors carried the makings for snack noodles on bamboo poles and called out their offerings,"dan dan mian!". Among devotees of this dish there is much discussion with regards to the addition or omission of sesame paste. It's worth noting the difference, since sesame paste is intensely flavorful and the two versions would seem to be at odds within the tradition of dan dan mian. The fact is, both are common in Sichuan, though the exported version of Dan Dan Mian seems to always contain the sesame paste. Common elements to look for are pork, chili oil, scallion and ya cai, (preserved vegetable), and sichuan peppercorn (Hua Jiao)--the latter being included in countless traditional Sichuan preparations. In my time in Chengdu, the capitol of Sichuan province, I enjoyed this snack many times in the small restaurants that one found in the side streets of that city.

12 oz fresh wheat noodles

4 oz pork, minced

3/4 tsp Sichuan peppercorn, lightly roasted and ground

1 med clove garlic, minced

1-1/2 Tab Sichuan pickled vegetable ya cai (editor: Tianjin preserved vegetable works well)1 Tab soy sauce

1 Tab rice wine

Sauce/topping:

2 tsp dark soy sauce

1 Tab Soy sauce

1 Tab chicken stock

1 tsp ChingKiang black vinegar

1/2 tsp sugar

2 Tab chili oil

1/4 tsp of salt

2 scallions, green portion only, sliced thin--reserve a few for garnish

Cook the fresh noodles for 2 minutes or so, and check for desired doneness. Remove, drain until the noodles begin to stick together, then toss with a small amount of oil; portion out to 2 or 3 bowls.

Combine the sauce ingredients.

Heat the wok on medium heat until it just begins to smoke and add 3 or 4 tablespoons of oil. When the oil is hot, add minced pork and stir fry, taking care to break up the meat; quickly add the garlic, peppercorn and preserved vegetable and toss. Splash in a tablespoon each of soy sauce and rice wine, toss, and remove.

Portion out the sauce/topping equally over each bowl of noodles; garnish with sesame oil and a few slices of green scallion

To make the sesame paste version: use the recipe above, omitting the Chingkiang vinegar and dark soy sauce. Also, to the sauce/topping ingredients, add 1 round Tablespoon of sesame paste and another tablespoon of chicken stock, and mix very thoroughly to dissolve the sesame paste.

Ma Yi Shang Shu (Ants Climbing a Tree)

Ants Climbing a Tree (Ma Yi Shang Shu)

This Sichuan dish has an imaginative name, and its unique appearance, texture and delicious flavors justify the poetry:  it derives from the finely minced pork, which when combined with the noodles properly, suggests ants clinging to the branches of a tree--well, you may have to use your imagination for this one!  Ma Yi Shang Shu has survived the ages, however, by the pleasing use of wok simmered, translucent, mung bean noodles, commonly found in soups, known in Chinese as fen si.  In the west, it has been called bean thread, cellophane, and vermicelli noodles, and is produced from the same legume as the venerable bean sprout.  Its texture is smooth and slippery, and constitutes a very unique experience among the countless noodles dishes of China.

6 - 7 oz dry bean thread noodle (fen si).
5-6 oz lean pork, minced carefully 1/8” pcs.
2 green onions, white portion fine mince, greens shredded for garnish
2 med cloves garlic, finely minced
1 heaping Tab ginger, finely minced
1 tsp chili paste

Meat marinade:

1 tsp dark soy sauce
4 tsp shao xing wine or dry sherry
2 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
1 tsp cornstarch

Sauce:

1 1/2 to 2 CUPS homemade or low sodium chicken stock
2 Tab shao xing wine or dry sherry
2 tsp sugar
2 tsp salt

Soak the beanthread noodles in hot water for an hour or so, until pliable, then drain.  Cut the noodles in half or thirds with scissors, cover and set aside.

Preparing the pork is important; the appearance of the dish is enhanced by mincing the meat in fairly uniform “ant-like” pieces.  Putting the pork in the freezer until it is very firm but not frozen helps; slice the meat across the grain, 1/8” thick, then cut the slices into 1/8” diameter matchsticks; align the pieces and cut them into 1/8” dice; marinate the meat for at least 30 minutes in the marinade ingredients.

Heat the wok to med high, add peanut oil, and stir fry the minced pork, using chopsticks to thoroughly separate the meat pieces as they cook.  Fry the pork until it is completely done and begins to darken.  Push the pork up the sides of the wok and add more oil if necessary so that a couple of tablespoons is available for the rest of the frying (To enhance the “ant” appearance, 2 or 3 tablespoons of meat can be taken out at this point to use as a garnish).  Add ginger, the white part of the minced onion, and garlic; stir fry for 30 seconds or so, then add chili paste and stir fry until well blended.  Add the sauce ingredients, then the drained bean thread noodles and mix thoroughly.  At first it may seem that you've used too much sauce, but it will be absorbed in time. Simmer the noodles for 4-5 minutes, stirring occasionally, and adding small amounts of water if the noodles appear to be drying out.  When the mung bean noodles are soft and velvety,  turn the noodles over, making sure the minced ingredients are picked up from the bottom of the wok, and slide the mass onto a platter.  Garnish with a little sesame oil, a few green onion  shreds, and the reserved cooked pork.

Hong You Chao Shou (Dumplings in Hot Oil)

This xiao chi (little dish, or snack) hails from Chengdu, Sichuan, where years ago I also fell in love with the street food.  As Fuschia Dunlop will tell you in her excellent book Land of Plenty, there is a famous restaurant in the city, Long Chao Shou, purveying chao shou in several variations, (and hundreds of other Chengdu specialties), including these dumplings in a clear broth, and in a hot and sour soup.  Hong you chao shou  translates literally as something like “red oil folded hands,” and with some imagination, one might see these hun tun (won ton) dumplings swathed in fragrant chili oil as such.  The variations in folding these dumplings, and different sauces and broths in which it is served, make this snack almost generic, but universally appreciated around the province.  The current recipe is not so different than another Sichuanese dumpling, hong you shui jiao (literally, “red oil water dumpling”): except that, the chao shou, as is traditional with a hun tun,  has a far more delicate skin and filling.


Filling:

10 oz pork (at least 20% fat)
1/4 cup water (for “ginger water”)
1” x 3” pc ginger (for “ginger water”)
1 small egg, beaten
1 tsp sesame oil
1 tsp rice wine or dry sherry
white pepper
1/3 or so salt
1/4 cup of pork or chicken stock

Dough:

8 oz bread flour (plus 1/2 cup or more to knead in)
1 small egg, beaten
1/2 cup cold water

 Sauce (per bowl):

1 Tab chili oil (See recipe for hong you)
2 tsp light soy sauce
1 round tsp sugar
2 tsp chicken or pork stock

Garnish (per bowl):

1 clove garlic, finely minced
1 tsp chili oil
1 tsp sesame oil
Sprig of cilantro
Dash of roasted, ground Sichuan Peppercorn (hua jiao) if desired

To make the dough:
Combine the beaten egg and water and add to the flour, combining it a little at a time, until a rough ball of dough forms.  Knead the dough thoroughly, adding the extra flour as you go to keep it from sticking to your hands.  When the dough is very smooth and stretchable, cover with a damp towel or plastic, set aside to rest for an hour or overnight.
To make the filling:
Crush the piece of ginger and combine it with the water, squeezing the pulp to extract the juice, and set aside.
Wash and dry the pork.  Mince very fine, then, using the blunt edge a large cleaver,  pound the meat on a cutting board, turning it as you do so, until it is an even paste.  Pick out and discard any obvious strands of gristle or tendon.
Combine the meat in a bowl with ginger water, the egg, sesame oil, rice wine, white pepper, and salt.  Stir  mixture thoroughly in one direction until all the liquids are absorbed.  While continuing to stir vigorously, add the stock a little at a time, allowing the meat to absorb the liquid before continuing.  If the mixture seems too wet to hold its shape on a spoon, allow the filling to rest in the refrigerator and try again, until the mixture is shiny, smooth and fragrant.  Refrigerate until ready to use.
To make the wrappers:
Divide the dough into 2 or 3 pieces, keeping the unused portions under a damp cloth or plastic.  Stretch the dough piece into a rope about 5/8” diameter, then, using a generous amount of flour, roll it into a flat sheet until it is very thin.  It is necessary to dust the sheet with flour and turn it over, to prevent it sticking to your tools.  The thin sheet should be slightly translucent, about the thickness of two playing cards, and at least 3” wide.   The length is not important. Trim the strip so that it is an even 3” wide, and cut it into as many 3” squares as the sheet allows, reserving the scraps with the other dough.  If the squares are well dusted, you can continue to make 3” squares until all the dough is used. 

To make the dumplings:

Holding it flat on your left hand, put a tablespoon of filling in the center of the square; wet two edges and fold the wet edges to form a triangle.  Press the edges securely together and place on a floured surface of parchment paper.  If you want to create the classic hun tun shape, wet one of the tips of the long side of the  triangle and join them together, forming a “hat” shape.  Any chao shou that will not be used right away can be frozen separately on a non-stick surface, then bagged later.

To make the sauce and garnish, cook the dumplings, and serve:

A common serving of chao shou would be 4 or 5 dumplings. Just before cooking and serving the chao shou, in a bowl, combine all the sauce ingredients for as many servings as you need, and set aside.  For the garnish, finely mince the garlic and mix together with oils and set aside.

Boil the dumplings in a large stock pot of boiling water for 2-1/2 to 3 minutes.  Retrieve with bamboo strainer and place 4 or 5 dumplings in each serving bowl.  After stirring thoroughly, apportion the sauce over the top of the dumplings; likewise the garlic and oil garnish, sprig of cilantro and peppercorn, if desired.

Hong You (Chili Oil)

When you purchase chili flake, try to buy flake which is a bright red color.  Some Asian markets will sell chili that looks downright archeological.  In theory, grinding whole dried chilis is possible as well, but these are not usually crisp enough to break down well in a kitchen blade grinder.  This recipe provides precise temperatures, so using a fry thermometer for this recipe will be helpful.  The oil will improve with age, up to a few months.  If, once your finished oil has mellowed for a few days, you find this batch too hot for your taste, you can add a quarter cup of oil to dilute it.


Not only is hong you a staple in Sichuan kitchens, used  as a condiment, a sauce and a flavoring, it is ubiquitous around Asia, even finding its way into the dim sum restaurants of Southern China and Hong Kong, where spicy foods are far less common.  Even in the United States, every Asian grocery will carry several kinds of red chili oil--not to be confused with the chili pastes of Sichuan or the red purees and sambals of southeast Asia.  However, you will find that home made chili oil, known as  hong you, (red oil) is far superior in both color and taste, and extremely easy to make. 


     1/3 cup dry red chili flake
     1 cup peanut oil
     1” x 1” pc of ginger, crushed to release flavor
     1 star anise



Heat oil in a saucepan or wok until it is about 275 to 300 degrees.
Remove from heat and drop in crushed ginger; when the heat has cooled to 250 degrees add the chili flakes and star anise and stir.  It may fizz for a bit, which is a sign the oil was hot enough.  If the oil smokes and the flakes turn a dark brown, the temperature was too high.


When your oil has cooled to warm, discard the ginger pieces and pour everything into a glass container making sure all the flakes are included.  In two or three days, the brilliant red oil will clarify, develop its full flavor and be ready to use.

Suan La Huang Gua (Pickled Cucumber Salad)

Pickled Cucumber Salad  (suan la huang gua)


Pickled vegetables are a mainstay of Chinese cuisine, from North to South; this dish would constitute what might be called a “fresh” pickle, and is distinct from the many hundreds of varieties that are cured indefinitely in earthen jars.  It is bright and healthy, and is an excellent compliment to any heavier main dish.  Small pickling cucumbers are best to use for suan la huang gua—unskinned, they will remain crisp as the acidic ingredients work on the vegetable.  Having seen this appetizer countless times when traveling in Sichuan province,  I can’t imagine beginning a Sichuan meal without it. 

1 lb   small pickling cucumbers
2 or 3 medium garlic cloves, sliced thin crosswise
3 small dried red chilis,  or 1 fresh red chili, or both, finely shredded
1/2 tsp Sichuan peppercorn, roasted and ground
1 Tab rice vinegar
1 Tab rock sugar (cane sugar will do)
1 Tab peanut Oil
1 tsp sesame oil
1 Tab finely shredded ginger

Wash the cucumbers thoroughly and cut off the round ends.  Leaving on the skins, slice each cucumber in half lengthwise and remove the seeds with a spoon. Cut the cucumbers in quarters lengthwise, then eighths, forming wedges.  Cut the wedges in half, crosswise, and place in a bowl with a few dashes of salt.  Allow to marinate for 1 or 2 hours, tossing occasionally, to extract some of the water.  Drain thoroughly and towel to dry.
When cucumbers are ready stir fry garlic slices in a wok with a tablespoon of peanut oil until slightly browned; transfer the garlic slices and any of the oil in which it was cooked to a mixing bowl.  Add cucumbers, Sichuan peppercorn, vinegar, sugar, peanut and sesame oil and ginger.  Marinate for an hour or a day or two (This fresh pickle will lose some of its crisp texture after a day or two).

Chao Rou Gu Mian (Pork and Mushroom Fried Noodle)

Chao Rou Gu Mian (Pork and Mushroom Fried Noodle) is a street noodle preparation I encountered my first day in the ancient capital city, Xian, in central China.  The secrets to this Chao rou gu mian is using steamed noodle, which has a distinctive texture, and marinating the shredded mushroom in wine, soy and a dash of sweet vinegar.

4 oz pork
12 oz fresh steamed noodles (see "steamed noodles" in the Technique section
3 fresh red cayenne chilis, slivered on the diagonal (dried chilis can be used)
2 large scallions, sliced on the diagonal
Peanut oil
4 chinese dried mushrooms
1 large cloves Garlic slivered
1" x 3/4" peeled, ginger slivered
wine
dash vinegar

Sauce:

1-Tab bean sauce ground
1 Tab sweet bean (or hoisin) sauce
2 TAB stock
1/2 tsp salt

For garnish:

sesame oil
slivered scallion or carrot
Put the mushrooms in very hot water and allow to soak for about an hour. When they are completely softened, put them in a towel or cheesecloth and wring out as much water from them as possible. Slice into matchstick shreds, making sure to trim out any hard portions. Marinate in soy sauce, wine and sweet black vinegar, about a teaspoon or so each, and set aside.
Cut the pork into matchstick shreds (see Technique section for hints on cutting) Add a marinade of a little soy sauce, wine and cornstarch. Mix thoroughly, add a tablespoon of oil and mix again. Set aside.
Put the steamed noodles into boiling water, when returns to a boil, they are about ready. Check them for desired texture.
Mix sauce ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.
Heat the wok and when it just begins to smoke, add 2 or 3 tablespoons of peanut oil and swirl around the wok. Stir fry meat until it barely begins to brown, and move to the side; when oil reheats, add the garlic and ginger, toss a few times, then add chilis; add scallions, turn a few times, keeping meat to the side. Add mushrooms, stir fry until well mixed; splash in wine, and vinegar, then incorporate meat, and add sauce mixture. When sauce is hot, add noodles and stir fry, occasionally allowing the noodles to "rest" in the wok to brown them a little.
When the noodles are hot and slightly browned, plate the dish and garnish with sesame oil and green onion slices.

Yu Xiang Zhu Rou Si (Fish fragrance Pork Shreds)

Fish Fragrance Pork shreds Yu Xiang Rou Si

Yu Xiang Rou Si is one of the most famous of all Sichuan dishes; however, it requires the use of an ingredient unfamiliar to most Western cooks: Dried Cloud Ear, also known as Wood Ear fungus. There seems to be general disagreement over the difference between these two mushrooms.  Some, for example, Yan-Kit So, (Yan Kit's Classic Chinese Cookbook) claim a distinction between the two; others, notably Bruce Cost, (Bruce Cost's Asian Ingredients) suggest they are the same.  To make matters more confusing, I've even  seen translations such as mao mu er, (lit. "hairy wood ear"), and hei mu er (lit. "black wood ear") but such questions are only interesting to die-hard food geeks.  Suffice it to say these are all jelly fungi which grow on wood and fallen trees, have almost no taste, and are valued for their texture. You can use any of these in the recipe.

The name of this dish is generally understood to mean pork shreds prepared in the manner of fish; yet, even Mandarin speakers can't really explain why the Chinese name literally translates as "fish fragrant pork shreds."  It definitely does not mean "this dish will smell like a fish!" In "Land of Plenty," Fuchia Dunlop's superb book on Sichuan cooking, she suggests that this preparation is associated with a certain carp well known in Sichuan that is sometimes added to the brine of the pickled chilies used in the Yu Xiang preparations. Whether or not the origins of the name are ever known, it is one of those time-honored, traditional dishes that escaped the mainland, and in some form, spread from Sichuan to greater Asia, then on to the United States in the 70's. The unique quality of Yu Xiang Rou Si can be attributed to the shredded fungus and bamboo shoots, which contribute a flexible yet strikingly crunchy texture, while bathed in a typically pungent Sichuan combination of vinegar, sugar, garlic and pickled red chili paste. In China, pork Shreds and eggplant (Yu Xiang Qie Zi) are the most common Yu Xiang menu listings, but its popularity has spawned dozens of main ingredient variations here and abroad.


Stir fry ingredients:
12 oz pork loin
1 cup (4 1/2 ounces, drained weight) Bamboo Shoots, sliced and slivered 2" long
1/4+ oz dried Cloud Ear fungus (2 oz wet, after trimming)
1-1/2 Tab Red Chili Paste or Sambal Oelek Chili paste
3 medium cloves garlic, minced
3/4" x 1" pc peeled Ginger, slivered
3 med scallions (see below)
1 Tab Shaoxing wine, or dry sherry


Marinade:
2 tsp soy sauce
1 Tab Shaoxing wine or dry sherry
1 Tab cornstarch
1 Tab oil


Sauce Ingredients:
2-1/2 tsp Sugar
2 tsp vinegar, preferably Chinkiang Vinegar
1 tsp soy sauce
1/2 tsp salt
4 Tab Chicken Stock
Cornstarch slurry
Sesame oil garnish


Sometime before you begin making Yu Xiang Rou Si, it is a good idea to put the pork in the freezer if possible, as this will make it easier to slice thinly later on.


The Cloud Ears expand many times their original size when soaked in boiling water; do not be tempted to use more than a small handful, or just over a quarter oz. of dried product. Pour boiling water over the fungus in a heat proof bowl, and set aside for 30 minutes.


When the pork is partially frozen, slice the loin across the grain 1/8" thick. After you've cut 3 or 4, slice these pieces 1/8" wide to produce shreds, or "matchsticks." Continue slicing and shredding until all the pork is cut, then put it in a bowl for marinating. Add the marinade ingredients, except the oil, and mix thoroughly. Add the oil, mix again, and set aside. (see photo, right)


Drain the Cloud Ears, cool, and trim out any hard, knotty or fibrous sections--you should have approximately 2 oz. of trimmed mushroom to work with. Slice into 1/8" shreds, about 1-1/2 to 2" long.


If using canned bamboo shoots, blanch them in boiling water for a minute at full boil, drain, rinse, and cut the same as the Wood Ear fungus. Set aside. Mince the garlic cloves; sliver the ginger into small matchsticks. Mince the white portion of the scallion; cut the green portion into 1-1/2" sections, then sliver similar to the ginger. (see photo, right)
In a bowl, combine the sauce ingredients and set aside. Prepare cornstarch slurry (1 part starch to 1 part water or stock, in a lidded container which you can shake and pour) Stir the sauce and shake the slurry occasionally as you prepare to cook, to ensure the ingredients are combined and dissolved.


Wipe wok with a small amount of oil and begin to pre-heat. When wok begins to smoke, add 3 to 4 tablespoons of peanut oil and carefully swirl around to coat the sides of the wok. When oil is smoking, slide in the shreds of pork, and after it begins to brown after about half a minute or so, begin to break up shreds, and stir fry, pausing occasionally to allow some browning. After two or three minutes, when the pork is cooked through and partially browned, remove the meat or push it to the side of the wok. There should be 2 or 3 tablespoons of oil remaining in the bottom of the pan, and to this add the red chili paste. Stir this in the bottom for 30 seconds or so, until the oil is reddened and the pungent fragrance is released. Add in the garlic, ginger and minced scallion, still keeping the meat to the side. When the seasonings just begin to brown, move the meat shreds into the mixture and stir fry for 30 seconds or so, then splash in the wine. Add the shredded fungus and bamboo shoots, stir fry a minute or so, then add sauce mixture. When the liquid begins to bubble, add green onion shreds, and the slurry, a little at a time, until the sauce thickens slightly more than desired--the moisture in the other ingredients will thin it slightly. Plate the Yu Xiang Rou Si and garnish with sesame oil and a few scallion shreds.

Whole Fish with Chili Sauce (Doubanjiang quan yu)

Whole Fish with Chili Sauce (Doubanjiang quan yu)

One tradition of Chinese cuisine which differs markedly from that of the West is that of serving fish whole (quan) rather than in steak or filet form.  Due to cultural tradition and economy, game birds, domestic fowl and seafood are often served anatomically intact.  For example, many duck, quail, pigeon and chicken dishes are served with the head combs and beaks still attached, which is generally repugnant to most Westerners.  Chinese American versions of traditional dishes have made allowances for this, and by far the most popular dishes in North America are boneless, fileted and trimmed meat protein.  Whole fish, however, is often offered stateside, but usually requires special ordering in advance.  Any meat cooked “bone in” will tend to be juicier and more flavorful, so the following recipe is highly recommended as a seafood presentation, besides being a fundamental tradition in China.

1-1/2 1/3/4 lb Sheephead, Bass, or Snapper

2 TAB rice wine (marinade)
2 TAB Soy (marinade)

• 6-8 Tab Peanut oil
• 1 “ x 1” pc Ginger, peeled and minced
• 2-3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 green onion, entirely minced
• 1 level TAB chili bean sauce
• 2 tsp sugar
• 2-3 TAB Xiaoshing wine or dry sherry

Sauce:

• 1 TAB soy sauce
• 1 TAB sweet soy sauce
• 1 cup chicken or pork stock
• Cornstarch Slurry

Garnish:

• Cilantro, roughly chopped
• Slivered or shredded carrot
• sesame oil

Gut the fish or have it gutted and remove gills; wash and thoroughly dry.   Slice 3 diagonal gashes in the side of the fish, both sides.  Marinate the fish in soy and wine, rubbing the marinade into the flesh, gashes and the body cavity.  Let stand for 30 minutes or more.

Prepare flavoring ingredients, mincing garlic, ginger and green onion.  Combine the soy sauces and stock, and set aside.
Heat the peanut oil in a wok; drain the fish and pat dry; dust with cornstarch and shake off the excess.  When the oil just begins to smoke, slowly and carefully slide the fish into the wok, head first.  Use two shovels or spatulas to manipulate the fish, sliding it to the center, then carefully tilt the wok at angles so that the hot oil comes in contact with the head, middle and tail.  Fry on med-high to high for approximately 6 or 7 minutes, adjusting the heat so it doesn’t burn, then slowly turn the fish over.  This is difficult, and care must be taken not to break the partially cooked fish, nor tear the skin.  Roll the fish over slowly using two spatulas or two large chopsticks and a spatula and cook for 6 to 7 minutes.  When the skin is browned and the flesh separates easily when pulled with a fork, it is done.

Turn off the heat and gently slide two spatulas under the fish and put it on a flat plate to drain.
Meanwhile, reheat the oil to med hot (if there is not at least 3 TAB of oil left over from the frying of the fish add to it; if there is too much oil, scoop some out if desired)  When oil is hot, toss in ginger, garlic and green onion.  Toss until it just begins to turn color, then add chili paste and sugar.  Stir fry for 30 seconds or so, swirl in wine, then the sauce ingredients.  When sauce is boiling, add cornstarch slurry a little at a time, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens enough to coat the cooking utensils.  Take the wok off the heat and set aside while you carefully pick up the whole fish with two spatulas and place in on the serving platter.  Pour the sauce over the fish, and garnish.

Gong Pao Ji Ding (Kung Pao Chicken)

Gong Bao Ji Ding (Kung Pao Chicken)
With few exceptions, in American Chinese restaurants, Gong Bao Ji Ding is rife with ingredients not usually found in the mainland versions: water chestnuts, green peppers, broccoli, baby corn and a multitude of “fillers” which lower the restaurants’ food cost and dilute the traditional dish.  In Sichuan, the de-facto home of this dish, the presentation generally contains only chicken breast meat, peanuts, chilies, chili sauce and other seasonings.  As always, the name and origin of the dish is obscured by time and folklore.  Most commentators agree that it is named after a Qing dynasty Sichuan governor,  whose title was Gong Bao.  The Ji Ding translates as “chicken cut into small cubes.” Even with the changes it has gone through coming to the states, the popularity of Kung Pao Chicken is a testament to the simple genius of the dish.  Gong Bao Ji Ding is just as well known in China.  No Sichuan restaurant on the mainland would be complete without it.
You will find that in this version of Gong Bao Ji Ding the main flavoring ingredients are somewhat large, sliced pieces; this not only visually mimics the shape of the cubed chicken, but produces potent bursts of flavor which characterizes this fiery dish.

11-12 oz boned and skinned, cubed approx. 5/8”
4 – 8 dried chilis, cut into 1” sections
1” x 1” pc ginger, peeled and thinly sliced—cut slices in quarters
4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
3 or 4 green onions, white portion cut into 1” lengths; garnish with greens
3 oz. Peanuts
1/2 tsp Sichuan peppercorn (Hua Jiao)

Sauce:

2 – 3 tsp red chili sauce
1 rounded TAB of sugar, palm sugar or honey
1 Tab soy
Tab Shao Xing or rice wine
1 – 2 tsp Chinkiang vinegar
1/4 cup stock
Cornstarch slurry
Sesame oil

Marinate the chicken cubes in wine, soy, sugar and cornstarch.  Section the chilis, retaining the seeds if you prefer the full effects of the spice.  Peel and slice the ginger and garlic; section the green onion and diagonally slice the greens to use as a garnish.
I prefer to wok roast raw peanuts, as they develop a more robust peanut flavor and crunchy texture.  To do this, put raw peanuts (with or without skins) into a medium hot wok and add a dash of peanut oil.  Toss the peanuts constantly as they will burn in only a few seconds if left unturned.  Increase the heat as needed to brown the nuts, but they must reach a sufficient internal temperature to drive out their moisture, so do not roast them too quickly.  It should take 15 or 20 minutes to do this.  Obviously, you can use pre-roasted peanuts and save the time.  In any case, be sure to add the peanuts to the dish at the last minute, to preserve their texture. Thehua jiao should be tossed for a minute in a med hot wok to refresh it; crush the peppercorns with the flat of the cleaver, and set aside for garnish.
Mix all sauce ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.  Red chili sauce is available in a dizzying variety of forms and brands at Asian groceries; the popular Thai chili sauce, Sriracha, works well and is available even in standard grocery stores.  The amount can vary, according to your taste; however,  red chili sauce is usually acidic and should be balanced with at least equal parts sugar, making Gong Bao Ji Ding a traditionally sweet and sour dish.
On high heat, using 4 or 5 tablespoons of peanut oil, stir-fry the chicken cubes until they are browned and cooked through.  Remove with bamboo handled strainer or slotted spoon and set aside. Add more oil if necessary and stir-fry the chilies for a few seconds until they darken, then add ginger, garlic and onions.  When these have just begun to brown, stir sauce ingredients and add to the wok, then thicken with slurry as soon as it boils.  Add back the chicken; off the heat, quickly stir in the peanuts, plate the Gong Bao Ji Ding, garnish with a drizzle of sesame oil, green onion shreds and hua jiao.

Gan Bian Zhu Rou Si (Dry Fried Pork Shreds)

Gan Bian Zhu Rou Si (Dry Fried Pork Shreds)
This dish is in the popular tradition of “dry frying” (gan bian), which really means presented with very little liquid sauce. This makes for an intensely flavored and visually rich dish, since the flavorings become reduced through evaporation and cling to the stir-fry

ingredients. But perhaps the main appeal of dry-frying is textural. The meat is sauteed until dry, a thing usually avoided in Western cooking. This method provides a nice contrast with steamed and poached dishes. I have suggested sweet red peppers for this, whereas in Sichuan, where this dish is from, fresh chili peppers are used and the effect is extremely intense--possibly too intense for most Westerners.

11 –12 oz pork shoulder, boneless rib, or loin, sliced into shreds, 1/8” x 2” x 1/8” 
1 or 2 fresh red chilis, seeded and slivered
4 spring onion, white portion 2” segments, and quartered lengthwise, green portion shredded 2” long for garnish.
1 or 2 large sweet red peppers, shred same as pork
3 Chinese dried mushrooms, soaked in hot water, squeezed, marinated in soy, sugar, wine.
3 large garlic cloves, sliced
1”by 1 “ pc ginger, sliced thin

Sauce:

2 Tab soy
2 tsp Sugar
2 Tab Shao Xing Wine or dry sherry
2 tsp Rice wine vinegar

Marinate pork in a splash of soy sauce, dry sherry, and cornstarch.  On medium high heat, stir-fry the meat in about 4 Tab peanut oil for several minutes--as much as 6 to 10 minutes, depending on the cut size of the meat--until well-browned; remove with slotted spoon or strainer and set aside. Add more oil if necessary, and stir-fry the ginger, light sections of green onion (reserve dark green sections) and slivered chilis until 1 or 2 minutes, then add the sweet red pepper, garlic slices and stir-fry until all ingredients are browned; toss in mushroom and dark green onion segments. Add sauce and stir-fry all ingredients until it no longer puddles in the bottom of the wok.

Platter and garnish with sesame oil and carrot slivers.